I told her how different these land crabs are than over at CocoLoco -- so boldly traveling into the lounge & greeting me in the morning. "Oh, you mean - - these crabs?" and she held her hands wide like she was telling a fish story. UM. I'M SORRY. WHAT? To what could you be referring that is at least TWO full FEET across? Crabs? "uh, gee, no, katty. I haven't seen one of those yet. Thank you."
Is that what I heard in the night when I got up to find the bano? something SCUTTLE-SCUTTLE across the tile floor ahead of me in the dark....
Wait! This is why the guidebook recommends a flashlight. I have that! phew. Aaand, well done too, flashlight: first step out the door and something has churned up my little door mat. (which might have been a place mat in a previous life - like when sold at IKEA to civilized people who don't need to check for giant crabs when they need to pee.)
Rain's not bad out here either, not nearly how it sounds from inside. Sweeping the flashlight beam, the only other guy out of place is a toad by the breakfast bar. Which seems odd that a toad would be the one creature to come in out of the rain, doesn't it? It's tempting to get up at this quiet hour and sit out here while dawn is just starting, kind of. Wait until after 5am when it's full light and bring my books with and dictionary and ipod out to a table. But, what am I thinking? Ear buds are for people who need to block out the noises of their world, not when it's raining in Costa Rica with banana birds and snake-catching cats.
"Dawn" isn't in this dictionary - really? "Dawdle" and "Abacus" we might need but "dawn" just takes up space? Let me know when I need the Spanish for "Gumshoe".
Someone is walking around upstairs but Katty's not awake. It's the new guy who arrived yesterday, older, very tidy. He smells freshly scrubbed and dipped in something medicinal that may pass for cologne where he's from. Judging from his expletive when he finds the kitchen locked and the sign that it will be until 7am -- he's German. (that word does translate)
7am I knew that I need daily "alone time", especially early in the morning -- it's calming to wake up slowly, not a lot of noise or action or interaction. But, until the over-washed, sweet-smelling (not "sweet" in a good way, more like: hard to eat while he's nearby sweetie smell) guy sat near me for 40 minutes & waited for the kitchen to become available to him; I had no idea how prickly I am at dawn.
(Or shy: dreading small-talk with strangers at dawn, let's call that "shy".) (And: "understandable".)
When he's done in the kitchen I go in to make coffee & toast. The kettle is hot, so how did he light the stove? with difficulty? Well, if he can do it without lifting the stove grate -- so can I ... just... get that .. lighter in close.... HA!
What's that smell? ... like burning hair ... Quick check of hair = no. Fingernail. Hmm, how interesting. Burnt fingernail smells like burnt hair. I'll have to make a note of that. (ew) There's a little black char on the end of my thumbnail. Just yesterday I looked at these long, formerly painted, now gone ratty things and decided to chop them all off (in keeping with my new Bike Riding, beach-going, Usually Dirty, "get-in-touch-with my inner-10yr-old tomboy" lifestyle) but, think: if burning the nail means NOT burning the finger (like I've done to my knuckles every other morning) (Hey! it's a very small lighter, okay? don't judge) then maybe I should keep them for safety purposes.
Uh Oh. The nice morning has quickly changed into that strange, dark, almost grey/green color we get before real trouble starts (like: tornado warning color.) Katty actually came back downstairs to turn the lights back ON over the tables so I can keep reading.
POUNDING RAIN HAS STARTED AGAIN -- AMAZINGLY, IT GETS EVEN LOUDER. IT WAS LIKE THIS IN THE NIGHT BUT THEN IT WAS COZY. NOW ...
Look up "downpour" in my dictionary and almost announce proudly when I find it: Pago Initial! Wait, that doesn't seem right = "down payment". AGUACERO or CHAPARRON.
Also look up "Borrow" = Tomar Prestado (take temporarily). Maybe I'll ask Emma's mother if I can tomo prestado Emma to practicar mi conversacion. I will trade her subtitled NANNY McPHEE.
4pm
Later that day, after dropping my laundry (2 kilos @ 1,500c/k= 6usd) I see Mauritzio from LuluBerlu on my walk back. He's biking the other way -- off to get his laundry from a llavanderia too (he pays 800c/kilo). We chatted a bit, he reminded me about the rental house (or it might be a room in a house? it's unclear) for only 200usd, in town ... I told him I'm looking outside the village but that I want to visit again and play backgammon and practice Spanish with Emma in trade for movies. He finds this funny.
We somehow get on the topic of family, standing there in the street. He tells me he had a twin brother who was killed a few months ago, murdered in Limon (a large-ish city north of here). There's crime and drugs and things get rough. It's not clear if he was robbed or what but -- the poor guy. How do you lose a twin brother?
They used to surf together. I asked if sometimes it felt like his brother is still out there, when he's waiting for a set, does he feel it? ... he thinks maybe sometimes. I told him that (despite the Irish tradition of constantly visiting the grave) I only ever accidentally "spent time with" my dad at the driving range. One day, I actually heard advice on my swing. (Good advice.) Looking behind me, around me, all empty mats and spaces ... Impossible.
I don't go in for these stories except for 2 problems with my logic: I heard it. And the advice was right on the money. My next shot was long and straight. Rats. Forced to admit to the possibility, I looked up and said "thanks for that." (The poor golfer hitting balls 30 feet away looked over. It was just us out there.)
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